Saturday, June 23, 2018

Jaipur

Perhaps not well-known to those who haven't been to India, Jaipur is the third city in the popular Golden Triangle tourist circuit, which includes New Delhi and Agra, the location of the Taj Mahal.

While technically outside of Jaipur, Amber Fort is its most popular sight.  The Fort is impressively perched on a mountainside, making it striking to view from the outside while also offering beautiful views of the surrounding countryside - a boon for tourists, but obviously a strategic decision by the maharajas who started construction in the 16th century.

Amber Fort rising behind us

Inside, the Fort has multiple courtyards and halls, some plain and timeworn, others with well-preserved carvings and decorations.  Our tour guide especially delighted in showing us the women's courtyard, which was designed with secluded walkways and entrances to each bed chamber so the king could visit different wives on different nights without the others knowing!

The Ganesha Gate leads to the king's apartments

Back in Jaipur, I was fascinated by Jantar Mantar, an observatory built in the 18th century by Maharaja Jai Singh II, the founder and namesake of Jaipur.  The site is a collection of massive, stone sundials, calendars, and other instruments for reading the sun and stars.  One of the sundials measures time to an accuracy of mere seconds.  Impressive!!

Jantar Mantar's "small" sundial.  Yes, there's a bigger one!

A final highlight of Jaipur was the Hawa Mahal.  The structure dates to the time in India when women could not be seen uncovered by strangers.  It is a wall with many small windows, built adjacent to the City Palace along the main street of Jaipur, through which the women of the royal household could view the activities and important events of the city.  While the purpose of the Hawa Mahal is unappealing to the modern, Western woman, there's no denying its visual beauty!

Stunning pink facade of the Hawa Mahal

Sunday, April 15, 2018

Defence Colony

My neighborhood in New Delhi is called Defence Colony.  It was created after India gained independence from the British in 1947 to allocate land to Indian soldiers whose former homes were across the border in the new state of Pakistan.  It was carefully planned with a commercial market area, parks, and measured plots of land based on military rank.  Although the neighborhood has changed significantly in 70 years, and new construction continues to change it, the outlines of this original plan are still evident today.

My favorite aspect of Defence Colony is all the parks.  It seems I can't walk more than five minutes without coming across a small park.  My favorite, and the one closest to my house, is called Sukun Park.  It has a walking path around the outside, a playground, a basketball court, lots of park benches...and at this time of year, colorful flowers!  I often detour to walk through it, just to enjoy a bit of beauty and green in the midst of a busy day! 

Enjoying the blooming flowers of Sukun Park

Another fabulous feature of my neighborhood is the Defence Colony market.  The market is more like what we would call a strip mall in the U.S.  But it has basic grocery stores, fresh fruit and veggie sellers, small home appliance/electronics stores, drug stores, book stores with basic office supplies, florists, bakeries with great fresh bread and fancy cakes, coffee shops, cell phone service provider kiosks, dry cleaners, restaurants, bars, and more!  And it's less than a five minute walk from my house, so it's perfect for running quick errands!

Defence Colony Market

Of course, this is still India, so Defence Colony is not all idyllic.  Most streets don't have sidewalks, so I have to walk in the narrow streets and mind the cars, rickshaws, and motorbikes flying past.  This is especially important around the market area where vehicles are moving through, parking, and dropping off passengers, all while I'm trying to look at the store fronts to find the right store without getting run over!  And reminders like the ones below are required to keep the neighborhood moderately orderly and clean.  But I love my apartment, I love my neighborhood, and I wouldn't want to live anywhere other than Defence Colony!



Saturday, March 10, 2018

Wagah Border Closing Ceremony

On the India-Pakistan border, between the cities of Attari (Pakistan) and Wagah (India), there is a fascinating daily border closing ceremony.  Each side has public stadium seating where citizens and visitors can watch the spectacle.  On the Indian side, viewers began to arrive more than an hour in advance to claim free seats.

Erica eagerly anticipates the start of the ceremony

When we arrived, the crowd was already in high spirits.  A commentator was leading loud patriotic cheers, and vendors were selling Indian flags and hats.  A crowd of teenagers and young adults were gathered in the central area, jumping up and down to the chants, taking turns waving a huge Indian flag, and dancing to the loud music, which included "Jai Ho" from the Slumdog Millionaire soundtrack.

Love those hats!!

Once the border guards came out, the crowd just roared.  The small group marched in formation before gathering together at the center.  From there, guards came forward alone or in pairs to high-step toward the gate with Pakistan.  They were swinging their arms so high I worried they might dislocate their shoulders.  They also occasionally paused to kick their leg up high enough to hit the tips of their fabulous red fan hats.  Again I was concerned about bodily harm, this time in the form of pulled hammies.

High arms...

...and high kicks!

I can only imagine the same activity was occurring on the Pakistani side.  But I didn't have a clear view and, honestly, was too fascinated watching the Indian guards to care.  The ceremony was designed to appeal directly to the nationalism and patriotism of each respective crowd, and from the cheering of the Indian spectators around me, it was doing its job.  

Carefully orchestrated flag lowering

Eventually, the marching stopped and we turned our attention to the large Indian and Pakistani flags hoisted directly above the border gate.  In unison, the flags were slowly lowered, maintaining the same height until they reached the bottom, were removed, and carefully folded.  The guards marched out with the flags, the gate was closed, and another day of Indian-Pakistani rivalry ended.

Jim and Emily cheer for India

Enjoy this short video I took for a taste of the marching and high-stepping:



Wednesday, January 31, 2018

Tiger Safari

When I learned that tiger safaris were available in India, I knew it was something I had to do.  So I jumped on the opportunity to join a group trip earlier this month.  Although everyone was pumped to see tigers, we also saw lots of other interesting animals along the way.

One was the rufous treepie.  These orange and black birds were bold and fearless around us.  We first encountered them when our vehicle was stopped and one of them landed on our vehicle's side-view mirror and then hopped over to the window sill.  He peered inside as if he was inspecting the dashboard guages.  Maybe he should have looked harder because the driver had to try several times to get the engine to turn over when we were ready to move along.  Later that morning, we took a rest stop and I pulled out some coins to pay for the toilet.  Suddenly I felt something on my head.  It was a rufuous treepie who mistook the coins in my hand for food!

The perfect perch for a hungry rufous treepie

I had learned during my safaris in Africa that although everyone gets excited about the big cats, the most common type of animal to see is antelope.  This didn't bother me because I think they are graceful creatures and I enjoyed using my safari eyes to distinguish among the various types of antelope.  True to form, we saw several different antelopes on this trip.  The most common was the spotted deer.  Our guide joked they are called that because they are so populous that everywhere you look you can spot one.  Hardy-har-har.

Spotted deer grazing under the trees

We also saw several groups of grey langurs.  Thankfully, these monkeys weren't as friendly as the rufuous treepie so we didn't have any close encounters.  But we did get to watch them chase each other and hang out in the trees.  

Love this langur's perfectly straight l-o-n-g tail!

When we set out on our afternoon safari ride, we had barely entered the reserve when we saw a group of vehicles stopped on the road ahead of us.  We pulled up and looked out excitedly as the guide told us there was a tiger!  We watched as the tiger appeared and walked through the trees alongside our vehicle.  Our driver executed a three-point turn and followed her, stopping so that we could again wait for her to approach and snap photos as the tiger walked past.  We did this again until we encountered more vehicles on the road.  Those drivers didn't have space to turn around, so they ended up driving backwards as our growing convoy continued to follow alongside the tiger.  I would guess the tiger came as close as 25 yards at one point!  We followed the tiger for close to 30 minutes before she hunkered down in the brush and we got tired of waiting for her to start walking again.

Tiger sighting!!

We were so excited about the tiger, but our safari ride had only just begun, so we continued our drive.  We saw more rufous treepies, spotted deer and langur, as well as peacocks, crocodiles, and other birds and antelopes.  And as we were leaving a few hours later, we saw the tiger again!  Our guide said it was the same tiger, who had continued on her walk.  How lucky we were...not only to see a tiger at all, but to see one up close multiple times!!

Erica and Karime with the beautiful Rajastan landscape

Sunday, December 31, 2017

Adventures in Transportation - Moto

Sometimes in Delhi, getting to your destination is half the adventure.  Recently, a friend and I decided to check out a new restaurant.  We found the location in Uber and set off.  As we neared it, we found ourselves in a busy market district, so we hopped out of the car, figuring it would be easier to search for it on foot.  We walked up and down the street, and down a back alley, but found no sign of the restaurant.  We asked some shopkeepers with no success.  Eventually we called the restaurant, and embarked on a fruitless conversation of trying to explain where we were with very few landmarks to go from.  Finally, we looked up the restaurant in Google Maps and discovered it was 1/2 kilometer away on a different street!  It was a nice enough night, so we decided to walk.

After a couple blocks, the restaurant called back.  We said we were now next to a metro station.  The restaurant said "Stay there, we will send someone."  Not sure who we should be on the lookout for, or how they would identify us, we stayed put until we saw a guy approach on a moto, looking like he was searching for someone.  He was our ride!  The two of us gingerly climbed on the back.  The driver s-l-o-w-l-y turned the bike around, but lost his balance and nearly tipped us over on the side!  Now pointed in the right direction, he again s-l-o-w-ly accelerated, and as we reached cruising speed and left the side access road, followed the shoulder directly into busy oncoming traffic!

This feels perfectly safe!

Luckily we only traveled like that a couple blocks before turning off onto a quiet street and pulling up to the restaurant.  Our fearless driver humored us with a photo.  Then we enjoyed a nice meal, which was uneventful after the journey of getting there!  

Driver and chariot

Thursday, November 30, 2017

My First Indian Wedding

Last week I went to my first Indian wedding.  The first event I attended was a dance party with the groom's family.  After a long drive across town in Delhi's notorious traffic, we arrived to the home of the groom's mother.  My friend, and groom's sister, Deepali welcomed us and introduced us to all the family members who were bustling around with last minute preparations.

Dressed up and ready to dance!

A large tent had been erected in the courtyard of the housing complex.  When the music started playing, I discovered that the entire neighborhood would have the pleasure of enjoying the loud music whether they wanted to or not!  I suppose one of them couldn't resist joining in because later in the evening, Deepali pointed to an uninvited guest on the dance floor who no one knew!  It was a fun evening of singing, dancing, eating, and celebrating with the groom.

Drummers kept the dance floor lively

The wedding provided the perfect opportunity to buy some Indian clothing.  At first, I thought I'd buy a sari.  But others warned me I might have run out of time to get a sari properly tailored and that if I didn't get it on properly, I risked an unfortunate wardrobe malfunction.  So I hit the stores to look for something else.  After trying on multiple outfits with the help of a very patient salesman, I was able to find an ensemble that fit my price range and didn't need any tailoring.

First outfit I tried on was the winner

On the wedding night, I of course was running behind schedule and was worried I'd get there late.  In this case, it was fortunate that Indian weddings never start on time.  We had plenty of time to admire the venue and eat some appetizers before the couple arrived.  The groom arrived first, making quite an entrance.  A procession of his family and friends, flanked by musicians and lighted umbrella carriers, led the groom down the street in his carriage drawn by a white horse.  After extended singing, dancing, and picture-taking, he entered the venue to await his bride.

Groom with his chariot and lantern bearers

After the groom's grand entrance, I expected even more fanfare for the bride.  But she arrived quietly, on foot, under a simple canopy with select family members.  She made her way across the floor, stopping often for photo ops, until finally reaching her groom, at which point the couple was encircled by both happy families.

The bride's entrance was more subdued

Although the couple would be participating in several religious ceremonies into the wee hours of the night, I noticed that many guest were starting to leave.  Clearly the night was drawing to a close for the guests.  After giving my congratulations to the newlyweds, I took my leave as well.  I want to thank my friends Deepali, Deepti, Yamini, and Sachin for being my cultural ambassadors for my first Indian wedding!

My fabulous wedding dates

Friday, November 10, 2017

Melbourne Cup

Before moving to New Delhi, I had never heard of the Melbourne Cup.  But soon after arriving, I quickly learned that the Melbourne Cup is a pretty big deal, that the Australian Embassy in New Delhi throws a big party for it, and that I didn't want to miss it.

The Melbourne Cup itself is an annual horse race, a bit like the Kentucky Derby.  In addition to the race itself, the day has other traditions and becomes an excuse to party...Aussie style.  First is the attire.  It's an understatement to say that people get dressed up.  Bold, bright colors and big, fancy hats are encouraged...for both men and women.  In fact, the actual race features a fashion show amongst attendees at the racecourse and thus it's customary for other Melbourne Cup celebrations to follow suit.  Here in Delhi, I especially enjoyed the best-dressed men's competition, which showcased some atrociously loud, floral suits.  Equally fun was the competition for best fascinator, those half-hat headpieces I always associate with British royalty.

Best fascinator nominee

After the fashion show was the raffle drawing.  I was at the buffet table as the first number was drawn and the emcee warned that winners had only 20 seconds to claim their prize.  I finished filling my plate, got back to my seat, and pulled out my raffle tickets.  Just as he counted down "3 - 2 - 1 - times up!" I spied the winning ticket in my stack.  Darn, I had missed out on DIAMOND EARRINGS because I was topping off my dessert with whipped cream!


In my garden party best

But the real centerpiece of any Aussie gathering is drinking.  The key race of the Melbourne Cup kicked off at 3:00 pm in Melbourne.  Because of the team difference, that made it 9:30 am in New Delhi.  So the event here was a brunch with lots of wine and champagne that turned into a drunken dance party by 12:00 noon!  Now that I fully understand all the pomp and circumstance of the Melbourne Cup, I have a full year to plan my fascinator and make next year's party even better!

Flanked by some of my finely attired embassy colleagues